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| Boracay frisbee |
Unless you just want to relax, don’t go to Boracay. It is not a place to do that. There are plenty of other beaches in the Philippines for that. I am not ruling it out for lazy sunbathing though. If you are for the appreciation of nature, Boracay is a perfect contender. But you shouldn’t miss out on the things you can do there as well.
I went there alone. Just like most of my trips, I took a flight alone. To review Boracay, I had to jump in a group of friends who already planned their four-day vacation there.
For a couple of summers, my parents had made it a habit to bring me to Kalibo every vacation. It dates back to the time my father had a huge blasting project for the road construction from Kalibo to Caticlan. It was also my first time to hear the blasts from the rocky mountains. Our house was not in Boracay itself. It was in Habana, a couple of hours away from Caticlan, the port for the boats going to Boracay. My first encounter of Boracay is mired by immaturity. All I remember of it is that one picture of two foreign girls walking near the beach topless. My dad posed and my mom took a picture of it. It hangs in one of my parents’ collection of photos of old projects for the company. Until now, I wonder why Boracay had its reputation for such liberty. Did they think (looking back) that we (Filipinos) were of such innocence that we do not formulate evil thoughts in our heads upon seeing their, well, exposed upper bodies.
Then and now
I had a couple of other trips to the island with the latest one in 2000. A decade ago. Imagine my shock to know so much has changed. From the early 90s Boracay I knew, to the one I met in 2000 to this one. I will try with my utmost vigor, to present a picture of how Boracay has transformed.
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| One can easily sink into relaxation mode anytime |
90s: Simple GetawayMy dad told me yesterday that he didn’t want to go back. He had grown so sick of it already. He had a house there. I can only imagine him waking up every morning seeing the pristine colors of the beach. I get him. Must be truly sickening.
There were not many resorts during my dad's reign. You can go there, set up a picnic mat and have a family lunch by the beach. The tourists were nonchalant of Filipinos’ existence. Like I mentioned earlier, anyone can freely walk topless anytime. People didn’t bother. No one took videos (except us who did take a photo). No one cared. It was like a famous secluded beach. You can enjoy its sanctity. It was basic, pure and simple. It was a perfect getaway, the word, being true to its purest sense.
Early 2000: Booming Tourism
We went back in a more luxurious stance, so the experience was tainted with money. We checked in an expensive hotel by Station 3. The hotel, though expensive, was a minute walk from the beach itself. It was mid April, the height of the summer. We booked late. Every hotel one could see in Yellow Pages was fully booked. We tried to get in another 5-star hotel (one of the only few then) that stood right in front of the beach, but the rooms were ugly. And we needed three. They only had one free for the remaining days.
Since I was with older people (family, friends, our beloved Jeo, etc) we only did island hopping (P1000 per boat) and sailing (P1000 per hour I think). Jeo knew how to sail so he took over a few minutes after we left the shore.
There were more resorts by then compared to the early years. But you could still see some vacant lots. Shangri-La wasn’t constructed yet. The tourist number has increased though. But not too significant to the point of choking anyone. We enjoyed hanging out in this simple shakes bar called Jonah’s Fruitshake. It was near Coco Mangas. It was made of nipa. It had an enclosed space where anyone can enjoy their drinks without being burned by the sun’s rays. One also had the choice to put a mat or towel outside, where you can relax and they can serve your drinks there. To the right was the shady part, with a coconut tree providing its shadow to anyone who would gladly relax underneath it. To the right were some wooden reclining chairs. We liked it there. We would sit there from lunch ‘til late afternoon.
Boats could also be seen everywhere. They were parked in every possible space. The view would even be blocked by the annoying boats. My friend and I used to hide behind these boats whenever we would change into our bathing suits before we ran to the water.
The station names (Stations 1, 2 & 3) originated from the fact that the pump boats would arrive at three different spots. Arriving at any station, the porters will either carry your things or carry you if you don’t like to be wet at an early part of your arrival.
There was a place for yachts. Jeo parked his yacht there one time, when he sailed to Boracay (not with us). It was near a restaurant that I forget the name.
Boracay also had a booming food industry. There was this really cool Indian restaurant that we particularly enjoyed. It was genuine. I don’t know what I mean by that. We had to sit on big sandy pillows. It was my first exposure to the pita bread. The ceiling had colorful Indian sarongs that served as decoration. It was beautiful, the very reason why I started dreaming of going to India someday.
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| Boracay Shirt |
2011: Commercialization
I’ve heard of rumors. "Boracay is different. Boracay’s not the one you knew. Boracay’s not the same." I had to find out myself. Boracay is Boracay.
I suddenly felt the longevity of the trip from Kalibo to Caticlan. I realized that it was faaaar. I never noticed before. Now, since I am paying for my own fare, I felt that it was expensive. The trip took 1 hour 45 minutes. I slept through most of it, except during the times when I would wake up to see the highway my dad made.
Arriving at the island, I was greeted by only one boat station. That was my first shock. I asked someone if I was to alight there, the kuya said yes. “Are there no other stations?” The answer was no.
I took a single motorcycle to D*Mall. I arrived there 5 minutes later. Never taking off my sunglasses, I walked into what appeared to me a different Boracay. There were shops everywhere. I never really entered the mall proper, but the D*Mall Plaza was already a feat to the eyes. Groups huddled together. I was alone. I immediately looked for the burger chain Ch texted me to meet them in.
The shades provided protection. Not from the sun, but from anyone seeing me peeking at them. Everything felt otherworldly. The people were not Filipinos anymore. There were Caucasians, lots and lots of Asians and Middle Eastern people, and other Latinos and Latinas. The plaza reminded me of a scene in a movie, a Latin American movie. I just don’t know what.
I arrived at the beach, because I was lost. Another shock came. The beach had no boats! Everyone was free to walk around a spacious shore line. The sun was setting already. Benches were set out to accommodate sleeping people (not really). People with DSLRs walked around like ants. So many people! So many! Seriously!
I met the group somewhere completely different from the burger house Ch told me. After meeting, saying hellos and expressing surprises, we went to the beach and I immediately shifted to the photographer mode. They begged me to change and we went to the hotel so I could put my things in our room. The hotel was another surprise. Before, I never noticed “cheaper” hotels near the beach. Our previous hotel was around a minute walk from the beach. Ours now was near the beach! And it was cheap! It was perpendicular to the beach and was fronting another hotel. There were no vacant lots anymore, and the place was filled with so many shops offering anything from scuba equipment to boiled corn.
There was an increase in restaurants and bars. They are everywhere. There were sari-sari stores as well.
On my first (and last night), Ch and I walked along the beach. I wanted to reach Station 1 and she acquiesced. Since every possible space was filled with hotels and resorts, if not stores and souvenir shops, we had to cross the waters to reach it, but it was low tide already so we didn’t get wet.
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| The new Jonah's |
Seeing my favorite Jonah’s almost made me cry. I gasped at its concrete façade and increased space. It was elevated and had a fast food feel. It was well-lit and the wooden chairs were replaced with modern ones. It was night already so I don’t know if one could still set up a mat outside to sunbathe and drink a shake. I suppose yes, but it was so modern, I didn’t know what to feel.
Coco Mangas was different as well. It appeared smaller. Now I know I am unreliable with sizes. But it has changed. I just can’t describe how.
Before leaving for Boracay, I read an article about the dying traditions of sandcastles in Boracay. I felt bad, but had to know it myself. That night, I never saw one. Normally, they appear on weekends before, but there was none when I got there. The closest I saw was this sand art that looked unmanned and I took a picture of. Then a boy jumped out of nowhere and asked me for a donation. He appeared jolly, and I teased him.
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| The boy and his art: a few of the dying sand art in Boracay |
“Do I have to donate?”
“Yes, ma’am, because you took a picture,” as if it donating was compulsory.
Ch gave him coins. I had nothing. We sat in the beach and chatted.
The next day, we did some water activities. I don’t know before, for I really did not notice, but there are more activities now. The group rode the Flying Fish ride before I got there. I’ve never heard of that before. Plenty other activities are new. I’ve never heard of a glass boat before. There’s also this head scuba diving thing. So many things to do. Made me want to stay longer, but of course, I had other priorities. One day was enough.
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| Flying fish ride (photo from Cra's FB) |
I am not in the position to react negatively (or positively) to the changes I witnessed all these years. Boracay is a beautiful place, regardless if it be commercialized (which is good for the economy) or secluded, it has a lot to offer to different people who go there for different reasons. Pretty much like the currents surging in from an incoming tide, all I can do is be swept by it. It is a beautiful surge. Fighting it would be a waste of energy.
Part 1: Manila to Kalibo Flight
Part 2: Kalibo to Caticlan
Part 3:
In and around Boracay
Part 4:
Boracay to Manila
Extras:
Jet Ski Experience
Cheap Transportation to Boracay
